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Apex Mills drives innovation, sustainability at its newly acquired Insight Textiles facility in Virginia


Insight Textiles’ employees continuously inspect yarn and equipment for premium quality. Shown here is John Diamond, a material handler in the Knitting Department with 29 years of service, inspecting a warped beam on a tricot machine that’s used to make a wide range of general-purpose warp knits, such as military, medical, apparel, swimwear, and automotive fabrics.

Photo by Graham Copeland

Devin Steel, Publisher, eTextile Communications

WOOLWINE, Va. – Since Apex Mills announced the acquisition of a former HanesBrands facility here in the mountains of Virginia in January 2023, the company has made significant strides in meeting its goals for the purchase, according to President & CEO Jonathan Kurz.

“The acquisition of this facility marks a significant step forward for Apex, enabling us to unlock new opportunities, expand our capabilities, and stay at the forefront of the industry,” Kurz said. “We’re excited about the possibilities it brings and confident in its ability to drive growth and differentiation for our business.”

Apex Mills, an Inwood, N.Y.-based specialty supplier and manufacturer of warp and circular knits, mesh/netting, elastic and 3D spacer fabrics geared towards industrial and technical applications headquartered, renamed the plant Insight Textiles. Since then, Apex Mills has made key investments at the site, adding state-of-the-art machinery and infrastructure that requires less material handling, increases throughput, and reduces costs and delivery times.

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Kurz noted that Apex can capitalize on the facility’s legacy core competency in processing fabrics with elastomeric yarns while expanding into untapped markets beyond traditional apparel and shapewear applications. “By leveraging the expertise of the dedicated staff and the advanced capabilities of the facility, we’re addressing a long-recognized need at Apex and confidently venturing into new territories,” he said.

The 243,000-square-foot Insight Textiles operation employs over 100 people on three shifts, has over 50 warp knitting machines, and operates a state-of-the-art dyehouse. Its other facility in Graham, N.C. – less than two hours away – handles the bulk of Apex’s knitting responsibilities.

Apex serves various industries, including aeronautics, military, contract furniture, medical/healthcare/orthopedics, apparel, automotive, home furnishings, and entertainment, among others. The company specializes in durable 3D spacers, solid knits, mesh/netting, high stretch, and elastomeric fabrics. In addition, the company provides automated fabric dyeing, finishing, and surface treatments, including fire retardants, moisture wicking, antimicrobial, temperature controlling and abrasion resistance.

One of the facility’s standout features is its class-leading dye lab, which serves as the hub for color development and innovation. “Here, we’re not only able to create custom colors but also pioneer new finishes such as our environmentally friendly antimicrobial treatment. This not only enhances the value proposition for our customers but also reinforces our commitment to sustainability and innovation in product development,” said Kurz.

Hayleigh Jenkins (L) and Kelly Dalton, both material handlers in the Finishing Department. Photo by Devin Steele

According to Plant Manager Jimmy Dollarhite, sustainability is crucial at Apex Mills’ facilities. At Insight Textiles, 90% of all manufacturing waste is diverted from landfills, he said, pointing out that scrap fabrics, cardboard, and plastics are all recycled. Plus, he noted that the company does not use any PFAS chemicals in materials or processing.

Dollarhite added that the facility is achieving quality management systems ISO 9001:215, Lean/Six Sigma initiatives, and energy monitoring, and its products are OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certified.

Strategic move

Kurz noted that the acquisition of Insight Textiles was aimed at improving operational efficiency, responsiveness to market demands and overall sustainability. The driving factors behind the acquisition included:

  • Mitigating supply chain constraints: The contraction of the domestic textile manufacturing base has made it challenging to find reliable partners for dyeing and finishing. With the acquisition of Insight Textiles, Apex ensures consistent quality and timely delivery of products.
  • Cost control: Bringing key processes like dyeing and finishing in-house helps optimize resource usage, reduce overhead and improve the bottom line.
  • Enhanced agility and responsiveness: Managing its supply chain allows Apex to quickly adapt to changing demands, expedite production cycles and offer customized solutions to enhance customer satisfaction and loyalty.
  • Innovation and product development: “With dedicated research and development capabilities, we can explore new materials, processes, and designs that provide application-focused solutions for our customers with a lightning quick turnaround” said Kurz.

Plant Manager Jimmy Dollarhite and Karrie Dillon,  at threader in the Knitting Department who returned to the company in Oct. 2023 after a previous 20-year stint. Photo by Devin Steele

Deep commitment to value-add

Further investments underscore the enormous potential seen within Insight Textiles by Apex leadership. “Our over 80 years of textile expertise instills confidence in making investments to serve a diverse customer base in need of high-performance textiles,” stated Kurz.

“We have implemented new cutting-edge equipment to process circular knits more efficiently, which has enhanced our production and ensured optimal output quality,” said Kurz. “This investment also enables us to meet the growing demand for circular knit fabrics across various applications.”

Apex is improving its capability to provide a wider range of fabrics with various surface treatments to meet customer preferences.

Recognizing the importance of vertical integration, Apex is adding slitting capabilities to its facility, which will expand its suite of services. This move aims to enhance agility and responsiveness and reaffirm the company’s commitment to delivering superior value.

“Our continued investment demonstrates our confidence in the facility’s potential to drive growth, differentiation, and success for our business as a trusted partner in the textile industry,” said Kurz.

Shown here are hundreds of yarn bobbins on creel racks in textile manufacturing. Yarn “creels” through tensioning devices, eyelets, and feeders to thread guides and needles and is ultimately knitted into fabric.

Importance of made in USA

Kurz emphasized the importance of using textiles made in the USA, which goes beyond simply meeting regulatory requirements. By offering fabrics that comply with the Berry Amendment, Kurz aims to provide the military and government agencies with the highest standards of quality, reliability, and security. “Ensuring compliance is a testament to our commitment to national defense and the vitality of U.S. manufacturing,” said Kurz.

Preserving and growing U.S.-made textiles is significant for Apex. “Our facilities represent more than just factories; they are pillars of communities, providing employment and continuing the tradition of textile excellence in the U.S.,” Kurz said. By supporting American manufacturing, we contribute to the vitality of these communities and uphold the values of expertise that define our industry.”

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